I was too tired to do this last night. And was staying in a windy and rainy field in a tent, so there we are.
I’m at the point in this trip now that I’m reliant on the photos I’ve been taking to remind me of what I’ve actually seen and done.
Day 3
The start of day three was a return to Llyn Morwynion, just outside Blaenau Ffestiniog. I’ve had the pleasure of visiting this site once before and it’s become one of my favourite places in the world I think. It’s just very beautiful and magical. It’s a glacial lake, up in the rolling hills which, from one end, looks down over a valley.
I’ve talked about it in a blog before, but it was visiting this site for the first time that made me realise how much the landscape had to offer our understanding of these stories. This is the lake where Blodeuwedd’s maidens drowned because they were all looking behind themselves for their pursuer, Lleu Llaw Gyffes. The idea they might be looking back down the valley adds something tangible to this moment in the story.
Then it was off to Ynys Môn, to track down some stone cottages that purportedly sit on the site of one of the main courts of the time. I need to give a big shout out to the book ‘Legend and Landscape of Wales: The Mabinogi’ by John K Bollard. It’s a translation of the stories with photographs of sites mentioned in the tales. This has been an invaluable resource in helping me find these places. In this instance, an extension on the side of the end cottage momentarily confused me, but it didn’t take long to figure out this was the right place.
Then I was off round the corner to the Llys Llewelyn Tea Room for my second vegan breakfast of the trip so far (very good it was too). As I drove away I was wondering what I’d done with my glasses when I heard a clatter across the roof of the car and looked in my wing mirror to see my glasses case bouncing down the road. Thankfully I was able to get them back and the case had done it’s job.
Next stop was an attempt to get to Bedd Branwen (Branwen’s Grave). I’d read online that this was in a closed field, so I wasn’t too hopeful, but off I went regardless. To my surprise and pleasure the gate to the field was open and it just took 5 minutes of wandering around before, logically, I worked out that the un-mown circle in the field had a big rock in the middle of it. Someone else had clearly been along in the past few days too judging by the fresh(ish) flowers placed in the split in the rock.
Again (I’ve said it before), one of the things I love about these sites is that there’s an element of endeavour to access them. Not just physical, but in tracking them down in the first place. These are sites attached to the most important tales of Welsh folklore, but they’re just out there in the landscape, hiding in plain sight. No signage, no pomp, no ceremony. Just quietly waiting for the next visitor to arrive.
Lastly for the day, it was off to buy a new tent, before visiting Segontium, Roman Fort, Caernarfon. The tent I’d come with I’d never used before Monday night. I got it for £11 from Home Bargains a couple of years ago. It did the job ok, but the daylight I could see through the stitching holes didn’t fill me with confidence that it would stand up to Welsh rain should it arrive (and it looked like it was going to yesterday night).
Segontium looks like this…
…and has it’s entrance just a little too far away from the brown sign on the road.
Then it was a night in a wet and windy field (which was fine) and I got to practice my Welsh with the lovely lady who runs the campsite who asked if I’d been to Tafwyl the other weekend (yes, I did), and proceeded to tell me her son had been and arrived home after 4 days absolutely wrecked.
Day 4
This has been a hectic day. Many more sites and lots more driving. I realised last night that one of the sites I had lined up (second on my list for the day) was reliant on the tide being out for me to able to see it - Maen Dylan - so I went there first. That’s it in the distance, the black spec in the centre of this picture, already looking like it might get consumed by the tide.
In my haste to get there I had another tumble, but I’m fine. Honestly. Just a flesh wound.
And I made it with time to spare.
What I wasn’t expecting was what I found when I rounded the rock to the other side…
Someone’s actually carved the name ‘MAEN DYLAN’ into the rock. A strange thing to do to a beloved landmark, but there you go. So, then it was off to two more forts - Dinas Din Lle and Caer Engan - two very different experiences (one’s dramatically on the coastline and the other is full of sheep and sheep shit), but what struck me is that those Romans knew how to pick a spot. From both places the views were spectacular and went for miles around. You’d definitely have a good idea that someone was on their way to fight you if you were watching from these places.
I’ve seen a lot of sheep on this trip and, bless their beautiful hearts, I think they might collectively be the most nervous creatures I’ve ever met. I haven’t come across a friendly, curious, or confident one yet. I’ve not actually been within 3 metres of one, as they scatter like you’re exuding a force field that’s making them move, even if they’re fast asleep as you approach.
Lastly today, it was a sweaty two hour walk through Coed Felenrhyd & Llennyrch, where I got a bit lost trying to follow the ‘red’ loop around the forest. A highlight was coming across this noticeboard, whilst lost…
But, in general, this place was incredible. It felt like being in a rainforest at points, save for the sounds of sheep and barking dogs that echo through the forest at all times. I highly recommend a visit if you’re in the area, and make sure you’ve given yourself a good few hours, or a whole day to explore, as you’ll probably get lost. It looks like this…
And so ends this day of my Mabinogi road trip.